It takes time for the novice or first-time homeowner to learn the tricks that keep a home ship-shape. One room that is easy to overlook is the garage. In many homes, the garage houses one of the homeowner’s biggest investments—their car. So, consider winterizing the garage an important part of your winter preparation—you will be making your home more energy efficient which will result in lower heating bills, and you’ll be helping to extend the life of your car. It’s a job even the novice can feel confident tackling. After all, many of the things you’d do to winterize your home you can also do to your garage, and for similarly small dollars.

When was the last time you took a look at your garage door weatherstripping? Possibly never, right? But think about it—your garage door gets a lot of use, and the weatherstripping is taking a beating. If the weatherstripping is worn, torn, or if there are bare spots, you might want to change it. Weather stripping prevents drafts and helps keep the garage energy efficient.

Weatherstripping, though generally inexpensive, is priced by length. Measure twice, cut once.

Remove the existing weatherstripping and use a razor or sandpaper to make sure the surface is smooth and clean of old adhesive. Then, following the instructions, cut your new strip to length and apply smoothly.

Garage doors are notorious for heat loss. If you have the budget, the best solution is to install an insulated garage door. But if that isn’t a realistic option, consider insulating the garage door itself.

Any insulation will improve the energy efficiency of your door. The most common forms of insulation are batt insulation, foam board insulation, and reflective insulation. Do a little research first. For instance, foam board or reflective insulation is a great option for garage doors without panels, while any insulation works well with steel doors. Some foam boards come with adhesive while others need to be glued or taped. Take the time to figure out the best garage door insulation to suit your need and proceed with confidence!

You may also wish to purchase a garage door insulation kit. Kits are affordable—around $100 for a two-car garage—and they provide you with everything you’ll need to do the job, including insulation and fasteners or adhesive/tape. Some will even provide you with gloves and a blade for trimming the insulation to size. Again, make sure to do your research to determine the best garage door insulation kit, and measure your door before you head to the store.

Another easy option is to install a garage door weather seal. These are strips of vinyl or rubber, they attach to the bottom of the door, and require a minimum of installation effort. The benefits of sealing the bottom of your garage door are many: seals help keep out water, dirt, and cold air. They even discourage mice and other critters from getting into the garage—and then your house. They can also help extend the life of wood doors by preventing rot.

One thing to keep in mind while adding all that insulation is that you will be increasing the weight of your door and may need to have the door springs adjusted—a job perhaps best left to the professional as springs may snap if tensioned too highly.

During winter, your car carries lot of the outside into your garage. Slush and debris tend to accumulate at the threshold and will melt onto the floor. Over time, this water, combined with the constant wetting and drying out, will degrade your door through rust or rot. Keep an eye out for ice and other moisture-retaining build-up (rotten leaves etc.) on the bottom of the door or in the track.

Springs, cables, and pulleys are the guts of your door and they get a lot of wear and tear. Make sure these parts are up to snuff. They should all be free of rust and/or corrosion, properly lubricated, and the track working smoothly.

Springs can be of particular concern. They counterbalance the weight of your door and are under a lot of tension. If they are showing rust and corrosion, they’re likely also squealing unpleasantly. Typical garage door springs are rated to last between 15 and 30 years. But, depending on your environment, springs can fail in a few as five years. If you have moderate rust or corrosion on your springs, you can remove it by rubbing it with white vinegar or some other gentle cleaner. When springs display significant rust, it makes more sense to have them replaced.

If your garage has windows, it’ll be wise to inspect the window caulking. If it is split, dried, or lifting from the seam, consider pulling it and laying a new bead of caulking. You’ll want to make sure the surface is clear of dust, chipped paint, and splintered wood. Wash it with soap and water and let it dry. Make sure that you’ve selected the right caulk for the job—there is caulking best suited for interior and exterior applications. A little research will put you on the right track.

When applying, either directly through a squeeze tube or with a gun, make sure to cut your nozzle to produce the bead size appropriate to the crack you’re filling. Caulking can be a little messy until you get the hang of it, so it can be a good idea to keep a wet cloth handy to wipe any excess off the window (and your hands).

A slightly more unusual option is to install mildew-resistant indoor/outdoor garage floor carpet. Properly installed, a carpet on the garage floor will help insulate the floor as well as absorb noise and be soft on your feet. Additionally, carpeting will help prevent slipping in wet weather and is easily cleaned with a vacuum.

Indoor/outdoor carpet is typically fire resistant (it will melt at extreme temperatures) and safe to drive on. You’ll want to glue it down rather than only tape it at the edges, as most manufacturers recommend. Let’s face it, your car weighs a lot and eventually the starting and stopping will cause the carpet to buckle.

Something to consider before installing carpeting in the garage is how you use the space. Is it only to park the car and store light tools? Is your slab crack-free and dry? If so, carpeting your garage might be an additional and effective way for you to insulate your garage.

Carpeting may not be a solution if you do woodworking or other jobs that result in metal filings or shavings. Metal shavings are hard to remove from carpet. Similarly, if you plan to do a lot of work on your car—change the fluids etc.— some spills can be difficult to clean and harsh cleaning chemicals can cause the carpet backing to break-down.

You might be a little intimidated at first, but you’ll find that weatherizing your garage not only straightforward and simple but well worth the effort. Most of these projects can be done in a few hours and the resulting savings will be it time well spent.

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